Inspired Rubber - Colored Bike Tires

Being a non-nonsence person is often at odds with the "artsy" side of my personality. My bikes are a good example. Half of me says don't mess with the minimalistic beauty of this simple machine. The other half loves the space-age look of high end racing bikes (Litespeed Bikes), the vintage style of women's bikes (Beg Bicycles), the funky colors and mismatched wheels of a hipster bike. Often what excites me is that highly functional part: the tire.

Wildly colored bike at republicbike.com

Colored bike tires can make a ride even fun-er if mounted on a kid's bike. And they could give a classic, vintage flare to a boring yard sale 70s bike.

There are many options out there but but I have yet to find one website that lists options for colored tires. Lovely Bicycle, one my usual web-visits, has a page that lists cream colored tires. But the page was built a few years back and could use some updating. And it only lists cream tires, no other colors. So, I am starting my own tire list. I know it will always be in a state of progress as tires will come and go. And I won't list black as we all know, black ain't a color!

Halo Twin Rail
Sizes: 26" x 2.2"
Colors (solid): pink, lime, white
Colors (multi, main/accent): black/gum, black/gray
notes: also have a 26 x 4 fat bike tire in black/white, 700's in white/black and black/gum

Halo Twin Rail II
Sizes: 29" x 2.2"
Colors (multi, main/accent): black/gum

_________

Onza
Canis, Citius, Ibex
Sizes: 26/27.5/29" x 2.25", 27.5" x 2.4"/2.25, 26" x 2.25"
Colors (multi, main/accent): black/gum

_________

Schawalbe
Lugano
Sizes: 700×20, 23, 25
Colors (multi, main/accent): black/red, black/royal blue, black/yellow, black/white, beige/skin

Fat Frank
Sizes: 26/28/29 x 2, 2.35
Colors (solid): gray, cream
Colors (multi, main/accent): brown/white

Big Ben
Sizes: 26 x 2.15, 27.5 x 2.0, 28 x 2.0
Colors (solid): gray, cream, brown

Spicer HS 442
Sizes: 26 x 1.5, 700 x 30/35/40
Colors (solid): graphite, cream, brown

Century HS 458
Sizes: 28 x 1.4, 28 x 2.0
Colors (solid): black/gray, black/cream, British racing green/white

Durano 23-622, 464, & One HS
Sizes: 700×23, 25
Colors (multi, main/accent): white/black, red/black, blue/black, silver/black, red/black, black/blue

Ultremo ZX
Sizes: 700×23, 25
Colors (multi, main/accent): green/black, orange/black, blue/black, yellow/black

Insider Training Tire
Sizes: 26 x .9, 1.35, 650x23, 700x23, 35
Color: blue

Rapid Bob
Sizes: 26 x 2.15
Colors (solid): white stripe

Racing Ralph
Sizes: 26 x 2.25
Colors (solid): white stripe

_________

Fixation
Session 700 ($40-$50 each)
Sizes: 700×23, 28
Colors (solid): white
Colors (multi, main/accent): white/black,
notes: ebay occasionally shows orange, orange/black, green, green/black, pink and pink/black though the Fixation site does not.

Accela ($25 each)
Sizes: 700×23, 28
Colors (solid): white

_________

Vittoria

Zaffiro & Pro ($? each)

Sizes: 700×23, 25, 28

Colors (solid): white

Colors (multi, main/accent): black/red, black/royal blue, black/yellow, black/white

Rubino & Pro ($45-$55 each)

Sizes: 700×23, 25, 28

Colors (multi, main/accent): black/red, black/royal blue, black/yellow, black/white

_________

SOMA

Everwear ($45-$55 each)

Sizes: 700×23, 26, 28, 32

Colors (solid/with black): white, pink, yellow, light blue, red

Grand Randonneur ($80 each)

Sizes: 650b x 42

Colors (duo): black/skin, terra cotta/skin

Grand Randonneur Blue Label ($70 each)

Sizes: 650b x 42

Colors (duo): black/brown

New Xpress ($25-$60 each)

Sizes: 700c, 26, 27, 650

Colors (solid/with black): white, pink, yellow, light blue, red, 

Colors (color/with skinwall): brown, terra cotta, black/teal, black/white, silver

Colors (duo): black/whitewall

Colors (duo): black/skin, terra cotta/skin

_________

Kenda

Kaliente Pro ($35-$50 each)

Sizes: 700×23

Colors (multi): black/red/black, black/silver/black, black/white/black

notes: road tire

Kadence ($35-$50 each)

Sizes: 700×23

Colors (multi): red/black, blue/black, white/black gray/black

notes: road tire

Kountach ($? each)

Sizes: 700 x 25, 23

Colors (solid): royal blue, red, white, lime green

_________

Maxxis

Re Fuse ($35-$50 each)

Sizes: 700×23, 25

Colors (solid): red, blue, yellow, orange, white

notes: road training tire

Rouler ($35-$50 each)

Sizes: 700×23

Colors (multi with black): red, blue, yellow, orange, lime, gray, white

notes: road racing tire

Courchevel ($? each)

Sizes: 700x23

Colors (multi with black): orange/gray/black, black/gray/gray

_________

Dia-Compe 

Gran Compe Ene Ciclo

Sizes: 700x28c

Colors: brown/tan

Gran Compe Side Wave

Sizes: 700x28c

Colors: black/white, black/pink, black/gray

Gran Compe 700

Sizes: 700x23c

Colors: white, pink, green, orange,yellow, red, blue, purple, brown

_________

Panaracer 

Fire FR, XC Pro

Sizes: 26 x 2.4, 26 x 2.1

Colors: black/red

Catalyst Sport
Sizes: 700 x 23, 26, 28
Colors: black/red, black/white, black/yellow, black/blue

Closer Plus
Sizes: 700 x 20, 23, 25
Colors: black/red, black/white, black/yellow, black/blue

Stradius Sport
Sizes: 700 x 20, 23, 26
Colors: red, blue

Practice Dual
Sizes: 700 x 22.5
Colors: black/yellow

Practice Dual TG
Sizes: 700 x 22.5
Colors: black/red

T-Serv PT
Sizes: 700 x 25, 28, 32, 35
Colors: yellow, blue, red
Sizes: 26 x 1.2, 1.5, 1.75
Colors: yellow, blue, red

Pasela & TG
Sizes: many 26, 27, 29, 700, 650
Colors: black/gum

_________

Hutchinson

Fusion 5
Sizes: 700 x 23/25
Colors: black/gray, black/red

Nitro 2
Sizes: 700 x 23
Colors: black/red, black/blue, black/yellow, black/green, black/white

Chameleon
Sizes: 26 x 1.95
Colors: black/red

_________

Serfas
Pacer
Sizes: 27 x 1.25
Colors: black/gum

STK Seca
Sizes: 700 x 23, 25, 28, 27 x 1.25, 26 x 1.25
Colors: white, red, blue, pink, gray

STK-RS Seca
Sizes: 700 x 23, 25, 28
Colors: white, red, blue, pink, gray, orange, green, light blue

_________

CST
CZAR C1406
Sizes: 650 x 23, 700 x 23, 25
Colors: black/red, black/blue, black/yellow, black/green, black/white, black/orange, black/gray

Metropolitan Palm Bay 
Sizes: 26 x 2.1, 2.3, 28 x 2, 700 x 40
Colors: caramel, cream, "copper brown wall"

_________

Michelin
Pro 4 Service Course
Sizes: 700 x 23
Colors: black/light blue, black/blue, black/pink, black/green, black/white, black/red

Dynamic Classic
Sizes: 700 x 20, 23, 25, 28
Colors: black/gum
_________

Grand Bois
Hetre
Size: 650b x 42
Colors: black/gum, white/gum, brick/gum

Lierre
Size: 650b x 38
Colors: black/gum,

Cypres
Size: 650b x 32
Colors: black/gum, white/gum

other Grand Bois models in 700c x ? at this link
_________

Continental 
Giro
Size: 28 x 22
Colors: black/gum

RetroRide
Size: 28 x 2.0, 2.2
Size: 26 x 2.0, 2.2
Color: brown, gray, cream
_________

others to be added soon:

Sunlite

Bontrager R3

Electra Retrorunner, Amsterdam City Tire, Blossom Trail Tire, 

Schwalbe Delta Cruiser

This post was originally published March 2013, updated often, latest 1/9/2018

Department Store Bikes - Great and Terrible (why Bike Shop Bikes are Expensive)

Being bike-crazy I often entertain myself on rainy days or after the kids are in bed by visiting bike forums. One of my favorites, MTBR, has as section I like frequent - Beginner's Corner. The majority of peoples' questions fall into two categories: getting help choosing upgrade parts, or getting help choosing between bike models. Sometimes, the person is pounced on by seasoned bikers chastising them for not choosing "real" bike brands, especially if one came from a department store. The self-proclaimed expert rarely offered reasons why they are so terrible. Then everyone goes away mad, not educated.

Department Store Bikes... the Givens

First, I have to say I don't hate Department store bikes. They do have their purpose - to be someone's first bike. But I do also agree with the "experts'" reasons (that are often poorly articulated) that these bikes are not the highest quality. I believe the main reason the for the chastising is the seasoned guys and the newbees are coming from different places. The seasoned folks eat, sleep, and live bikes 24-7. They often ride many hours a week, often on extreme terrain - rocks, jumps, high speed. The new owner is probably not going to be hitting these next-level trails any time soon (hopefully). Riding a department store bike in these areas can be, well, deadly and the old guys are not afraid to say that. While it is said with the best intentions, it is very deflating to an excited new owner.

So why are these bikes so dangerous? Why so unworthy? Well, they aren't... under the right conditions. These bikes are perfectly fine riding the neighborhood or local greenway. But, department store bikes are build to hit a price point, not difficult trails. Being "entry level" means everything about this bike is a compromise to keep the price low - cheaper materials, designed with less concern about tolerances, minimal R&D, assembled by non-professionals. Other than the last point, these "shortcomings" are not bad, just not right for the kind of riding the majority of MTBR guys do. High-end bikes have years and often millions of dollars of research to allow them able to withstand harsh trail conditions. They often use exotic materials like titanium and carbon fiber making them strong and light.

All these special materials not only mean extra strength but also better fit. The tighter tolerances of the machined parts of a derailleur, compared to one made from cheap stamped-out parts, mean shifting will be crisp, and it will stay tuned longer. Is this worth twice (or 10X) as much money? That debate is for another article.

Other things I have learned (and what MTBR guys should be/are saying):

Let's face it, Mountain biking, heck, any hobby, is expensive, especially if you insist on the highest quality, or you want to make major upgrades. There is almost no way to have high quality at a low price. So, if you expect to do big stunts (safely), expect to pay big bucks.

So, you still want to mountain bike and you don't have a lot of money? Spend as much as you can afford and don't question your decision. Let's face it, if you can only afford $200, that's all you can afford. Ride it and don't take it past its, or your, limits.

And resist thinking you can upgrade a cheap bike. Sure, the small stuff, like pedals and saddle, can be changed, but nothing expensive like the fork. A fork swap is an expensive and much more complex process than it seems, especially on an older bike.

What to do is you only have a few hundred dollars? 

There are a couple options to be able to stretch your bike-budget.

Buy a Used Bike
There are couple ways to find preowned bikes. The biggest place to look is Craigslist. Here you can purchase a couple-year-old bike at much less than new. But keep in mind, bike parts wear out, especially mountain bikes. If you have an experienced bike friend, bring them along to help assess if it is a gem or junk.

If you have a little more money, ask your bike friend if he or any of his friends have a bike for sale. These guys will know bikes and will more than likely maintain their bike... something you likely won't know from a Craigslist purchase.

Buy an "Old" Bike
Next up the price chain is buying a new bike from a bike shop that is last year's model. Bikes, like cars, have trouble selling if they are not the newest model. When the 2018 models are arriving, 2017 or even leftover 2016 models will be discounted. Some shops will even dicker on the sticker price a little.

So, get the best bike you can afford, ride it often, save your change for the next bike, and don't listen to people tell you that "you should have paid $2000." Oh, and be safe!

How to Change Gears on a Bike - The Secrets People Don't Tell You

Bicycles have been around for hundreds of years. Apart from refining of the design with high tech materials and state of the art manufacturing processes, bikes essentially have the same ingredients - two wheels, handlebars, a saddle and a drivetrain for forward propulsion.

Photo from an 1868 French bicycle magazine

My 2012 Kona Kahuna

In the 1960s gears became popular on mainstream bicycles making riding hilly areas (like ours) bearable. Today finding a bike with gears is not difficult. They are available on many inexpensive entry-level bikes found at all department stores. This means, if you buy a bicycle, there is a good chance you will need to learn how to change gears on your bike.

The “Secret” Concept of How to Change Gears on a Bike
After teaching both children and adults I have found that people have an "ah ha" moment when told the "secret"about gears. What's the elusive tip you need to know? Simply, gears change the speed of your FEET not your bike. Yes, that's it. When you ride you will want to keep your feet turning at a constant speed… whether you are going up hills or down, riding fast or slow.

But you are probably thinking "Ok, but what speed should they turn?" To learn what rate is right for you, head over to a large flat area, like in a parking lot, and ride at varying speeds until you find a comfortable pace that your feet's rotation feel “right”... not too fast, not too slow. This “right” cadence (to use a cycling term) is the one you will be using your gears to try to match… no matter how fast your are going.

Back to this in a minute…

Your Equipment 
Many bikes come with two gear sets – one at the rear wheel and another at the pedals. For this article we will be dealing only with the rear set.

Your bike will more than likely have one of two kinds of shifters – grip shifters or thumb shifters. The grip shifter will make your feet turn faster by pulling the top back and slower by rotated the top toward the front.

grip shifter 

indexed thumb shifter

"trigger" thumb shifter

Thumb operated shifters usually make your feet turn faster by pushing your thumb forward. Because there are a couple kinds of thumb shifters, slowing your feet will either require you to pull the lever backward or push a different button.

Oh, and in case you have never been told… you do need to be pedaling when you shift.

Using the Gears 
Back to the parking lot. So, you are riding around with your feet turning at a comfortable pace. But the world is not always flat. When you come to a hill and head up it of course it gets “hard.” The reason for this is your feet are not turning fast enough. Switch your gears to speed your feet up to your “right” pace and it will become easy (well, easier).

Eventually you get to the top and head down the other side. The same concept applies going down as up… you will need to change gears in order to keep your feet at the same pace, in this case, keeping them from turning too fast.

With some practice, you will get the hang of it. You will be changing gears without thinking about it, keeping your feet at that optimal pedaling rate.

Now that you understand gearing, check out the post with tips for gearing easier.

Originally published March 2014, updated 6/26/2017

Project Underdog - Junk Bike Refurb

Whether good or bad, I have always been the kind of person that roots for underdog. When watching any sporting event and a team starts doing badly, something in the back of my brain takes over and pushes me to cheer them on, sometimes even when they are competing against "my" team. Don't know why, it just happens.

I find that I do the same for bicycles. When I see an unloved bike I just can't stand to leave it by the road sending it to its grave. This bike, that I picked up on Craigslist is a prime example. A 20" Magna. Yes, I know...

Yes, crummy brand. There is a lot of (surface) rust, yes the cables all need replacing, yes the fork is seized up. But it is solid, the wheels are straight, and I figure by throwing on a few old cables, a 1/2 hour with steel wool, some black spray paint on the handlebars/cranks, and I will have a bike that we can use to teach the neighborhood kids how to use gears. And I won't be too upset if it is treated the way kids typically treat bikes...badly.

Stay tuned to see the "after" photos to this "before."

How to Measure a Bike Chain for "Stretch"

I always go over my son's bike after a long offroad rides, cleaning, looking for anything broken, etc. This time I realized I had never checked his chain for wear. So, out came my trusty ruler. I know the bike was not well taken care of before we purchased it so I was not too surprised with what we found: it was clearly "stretched." It is time for a new chain and more than likely a freewheel.

How did I know it was no longer good? Let's measure the "stretch." Using an inch ruler, put the "0" in the center of one of the chain pins and go down to the 12" mark. When the chain was new, the 12" would be exactly in the center of a chain pin.

In our case the chain pin center was more than 1/16" past the 12" line.

Stretched chain? Well, not really. What is happening is the tolerances between the parts are getting looser. More space, the longer or "stretched" the chain becomes.  With any wear item determining how much wear is too much is the difficult part. According to every biker's favorite info website (Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Tech Information Site):

• Less than 1/16" past the mark, all is well.
• If the rivet is 1/16" past the mark, replace the chain, but the freewheel/cassette sprockets are probably undamaged.
• If the rivet is 1/8" past the mark, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at the 1/8" point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.

Clearly we have waited too long. We plan to get a new chain. And though we might get away without changing anything else, we plan to use a "parts bin" freewheel I have.

Watch for an update soon, after I gather parts and tools, showing how to change the chain and freewheel.

Tech Tip: Hand Grip Removal

Every now and them I find out that something little I am doing that can save someone a lot of time and even better, frustration. I think this is one of those tricks: using alcohol to remove and replace bike handgrips.

I have heard others use hair dryers, heat guns, hairspray, liquid glue, and other concoctions when dealing with grips but they all have their tradeoffs. Alcohol does not seem to have a negative. It makes getting grips off easy, it makes putting grips on easy. So here is the way it works:

You will need rubbing alcohol of course and a screwdriver or thin stick such as a chopstick or bamboo shish kabob skewer. First insert the stick deep in between the grip and handlebar. Then pour a little into the gap. Now grab the grip and start twisting (with the stick still in). It will be a little difficult at first but will quickly become easy as the alcohol works its way around.

Insert a stick/screwdriver and pour in some alcohol

Now start twisting.

Installation: a little alcohol on the handlebar and inside grip will allow it to go on easily. If you don't get enough on then the grip will only go on half way. Don't worry, just use the removal method above (a screwdriver and more liquid) and it will slip right on.

Another good thing about this stuff, is it does a great job of cleaning oil off the handlebars. This means the grips will not slip around... once everything dries. But it will take a little while for the alcohol to evaporate. So if the grip is loose, give it an hour or two.

Happy wrenching!

Good Brakes - Not Just for Adults

Ever since my children showed an interest in biking, I have been learning all I could about transitioning them to my favorite form of wheeled travel.

One aspect that have been discussed online and in books is the kind of brakes on kids bikes. The overwhelming consensus is that coaster brakes are NOT a good choice for children... at least when learning to ride. The thinking is that when a child wants to stop, especially when panicked, coaster brakes are a slow and un-natural process. The time required to stop forward pedaling, then pedal backward is much slower and confusing than squeezing one's fist. They say to either choose bikes that have hand brakes, or install them yourself.

But as I looked at bikes with this better braking option, I have noticed many are not properly setup for young hands. Many bike assemblers never take in account that kids' reach is much shorter than adults'. It seem obvious when you think about it but I believe we forget about this when adjusting their brakes because hey, they feel natural to us.

So here is a quick how-to for making their brakes more comfortable and functional for your new riders.

Many brakes have either this big screw sticking out...

... or a tiny "grub" screw in the handle.

Before starting you will more than likely need to loosen the brake cable.

Now tighten the screw clockwise. The screw will push the lever toward the grip.

The before.

The after.

The "after" shows the brake lever much closer to the grip. It is now easily reachable by smaller hands, and reachable means your little rider will be just a little more comfortable and confident.

Yet Another GT

I am not sure why but GTs seem to love me. Let me explain. This past weekend a bike came up on Craigslist. The listing said: "Timber Line" 26" wheels, $15. Was it a one of those Walmart junkers? I don't remember there being a Roadmaster Timber Line. Pacific Timber Line... hummm, sounds possible. For the fun of it I emailed the owner asking about it.

The email came back with a photo and it appeared to be a GT with a suspension fork. Knowing the brand of fork would tell me a lot. His next email said it was a Rock Shox fork and yes, it was $15 not $150. He said the rear brakes don't work. The gears don't work. The back tire is flat. But the "shocks are good." I figured for $15 I could sell the fork, throw away everything else, and not lose money.

Arriving at the owner's house the bike was in their tiny living room. The place reeked of cigarette smoke. The flip-flop wearing wife explained that they were going to use the cash to buy groceries. So I slipped her a $20 bill and left.

Once home I was able to breathe and assess. The bike is a '94 GT Timberline FS - a bike just above their botttom-of-the-range back then. Most issues appear to be minor. A healthy dose of chain lube in the brake cable housings and shifter housing did wonders to loosen things up. All bearings are pretty tight. The wheels are pretty straight. With a through cleaning this could be a nice bike.

The stats:
the steel frame is pretty big but not huge, a guess 18.5"
GT "bull" handlebars, period-correct but strange
Rock Shox Quadra 10
WTB tires
trigger shifters
21 speed
Shimano Alivio crankset
Shimano STX rear derailleur (amazingly straight!)

Check out this funky double kickstand:

Cool but not on a real mountain bike.

I now have the problem of having a bike that I hate to part out. This gets me to back to my original comment... GTs love me. Now I have two Timberlines that I really like.

Penny-pincher Pedal Upgrade

On a recent ride I noticed my son's feet slipping off his pedals. The plastic "spikes" were worn down from years of hand-me-down use. I suppose it is time to get new pedals.

But we really like the fact that his old pedals fold up. I makes garage storage and transport much easier. So before buying new ones I thought I would try to add new "spikes". Here is my tightwad-dad fix.

tools/parts needed:
drill
aluminum rivets
rivet installation tool
pliers/Vice Grips
a cutting devise (snips, dremel or file)
metal file

Before:

After:

How it was done...
First drill a hole in the corner of the petal roughly the same diameter as the rivet body:

Then insert the rivet. I found it easiest putting it into the gun first because the holes were sorta tight:

Here is the tricky part. When you squeeze the rivet, do not pull it enough to break it off or so it pulls through the hole, just enough to deform the rivet body. Now use a pliers to push the rivet shaft out of the rivet body and back down in to the pedal (the reason for this later). I used Vise Grips with a twisting motion.

Clip or file/break off the shaft about 1/8" from the pedal surface:

Now you can file the shaft making it shorter and less jaggy. Here is how it will look before filing:

Done!

Tips:
Don't clip off the rivet shaft before pushing it down into the pedal. My first try I clipped it off and when I put my foot on it, it popped down into the pedal leaving it flush. So the next attempt I pushed it in, before clipping it off:

Also, be sure not to drill holes in the center of the pedal or you might drill into the bearings.

We have not made time to try them but I am sure they will work, at least for a while. Will post back if more "spikes" are needed.

Being somewhat new to MTB I am sure someone has done this before so sorry if I accidentally stole your idea.

Self-Inflating Tires

Popping up on all the bike blogs lately is a product that really has me excited. There is a company claims to have invented a self-inflating tire. It has a hose built into the tread that forces air into the tire squeezed in by the rider's weight. The final pressure is then limited by a valve that bleeds off extra pressure once the ideal pressure is reached.

Assuming this thing actually works (the tire has yet to be invented), I am excited more for other applications, not just bicycles. I have on numerous occasions told my wife that this country could save millions of gallons of gas every day if people would keep their car tires at (or above) the recommended pressures. Imagine if every car in the US got a tiny one mile per gallon better? My thought was that someone, like our government, who actually cared about lowering gas usage and pollution, could put free-to-use air pressure stations at gas stations. It would really add up quickly. According to Project America, we drove over 260,000 million miles per month in 2008. But I digress.

This new idea could KEEP people's tires properly inflated in summer or winter, with slow leaks or not, trucks, cars, anything that uses gas.

Needless to say, I will be watching this company like a hawk!

UPDATE:
Apparently this company's investors have decided that it is not as exciting as I. They are no longer asking for funding. Oh well.

I Love Coffee, I Love Tea...

Needed a bell, came home with a cup of coffee (that was also a bell). I saw this neat bike bell shaped like a coffee cup in a bike shop in Virginia and just had to have it! It is so unlike me to impulse buy, especially something so "fashionable" but hey, I needed a bell.

Be Careful What You Wish For

My son has always been a gadget guy. But surprisingly in a world of electronic do-dads, his favorites are old-school items with lots of function squeezed into small packages. He loves backpacks with pockets, boxes with compartments, but his favorites are tools that do many things. A Swiss Army knife is the ultimate.

Recently we found a rear bike rack in the back of our bedroom closet (a Christmas present to me that never made it under the tree). "Please, please please! I want it for my bike!" His favorite outdoor toy was now a gadget when it included a rack.

After riding around the back yard a few afternoons with all his toys bungied on, I suggested we use the carrier for what it was designed... carrying stuff. We headed out to the local pizza joint. A half hour later we headed home with two larges strapped to his rack. The added weight made the bike feel very different, a concept he never thought about. Needless to say, a little more grumbling was heard toward the end of the trip.

A few weeks later the topic of getting pizza again via bicycle-delivery-boy came up again.

"Daddy, I think you need a rack for your bike too!"